ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Interesting, because mine is working again! No, I didn't do anything. Mmmm. Not the motor then?
I bet it will act up again soon!
Jacques
Took apart the the motor, cleaned and lubricated it, put it in again and checked lubrication at all, connected and played a couple of CDs, no problems what so ever, found a very old and ugly CD-R, it played even that one. No failure on first CD, started at "0". Here is how.
Loosen the drive unit and tilt it sideways, measure the distance showing in the pic with a vernier caliper and make a note for assembly.
Loosen the Allen screw a couple of turns and pull of the CD support, the brass ring shown sits hard (press fit).
Unscrew the 4 screws and lift out the motor with PCB, do not loosen the 4 smaller screws holding the PCB to base plate.
Before taking of the brass ring, check the radial play. To get off the brass ring, I held the motor upside down with a finger on each side of the magnet housing, then hit on the shaft with the heavy plastic handle of a screwdriver until the brass ring was free to get 2 screwdrivers under it and then pressed it of with the screwdrivers, as I had to use all my hands and nearly all my fingers, no pic. Upon the laser label you can see the brass ring, a copper washer and nylon washer, check on which side (end) of the shaft, and how many, they are located and put them back in the same place.
I cleaned with pipe cleaners and Iso alcohol, 2 times, then applied Deoxit (Deoxit has some acid in it and may help loosen up old grease and oil rests) and let it sit for 5 Min. then 2 times with alcohol, put Liquid bearings on the shaft, and inserted it, rotated it a lot of times took it out, cleaned again, let dry, oiled the shaft again and inserted it, rotated. To check if OK, pull the magnet housing half way of the coils, let loose, it must snap fast into place, if not, keep on cleaning. Put the washers back in place magnet side, put the shaft in and the washers back brass ring side.
To get the brass ring back on I used the small tube sitting with one screw on the cooling fin, it fits perfectly over the shaft, first put on the ring and press in on or hit it with a screwdriver handle until the shaft is some Mm. out of the ring, then put the tube on the shaft and press it or hit it down until the ring is in place. Adjust the lateral play, 0.10 to 0.20 Mm., with hitting the shaft or the ring until OK. check that the motor is turning very lightly.
Put the motor back in place, if you took of cable ties, replace them, tilt the drive to the side
Place the CD support where it was before, tighten the Allen screw lightly, adjust the before measured distance, tighten the Allen screw. Assemble the deck, except for the cover, dont forget to put back the small tube, connect, check open close, check all wires run free, put on a CD and test.
Cover on, done.
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
chartz: Interesting, because mine is working again! No, I didn't do anything. Mmmm. Not the motor then? I bet it will act up again soon!
I had same with mine, sometimes failure first CD starting at 15 sec. or so, then it got worse, and I had to start first CD a couple of times before it started, The last time I played I could play 2-3 CDs and then it stopped working, I could not open the tray, had to let it cool down for an hour or so and then I could open the tray.
I have been playing 5 CDs now, no failures what so ever, I´m slowly convincing myself that most failures you get from these CD50s is because of a bad running disc motor, could it be that the motor pull so much amps, that other components gets affected. Will turn it of for the night and try again tomorrow.
This makes me think of. How is the laser drive motor, same dry, same hard working, maybe I should strip that one too, going to think about that.
Thanks Søren! At last photos of an almost tell-tale job!
Now I've almost gathered enough courage to do it as well!
But the pressed brass ring part is a little daunting... Especially lifting it with two screwdrivers!
Especially after that: http://www.tapeheads.net/showthread.php?t=20949
I did this just by pushing motorsaft against devices metalframe by fingers from motors flange (where 4 scrwes are). Uh, any sens in this?
And distance from cd mech body to discplatters UNDERside should be 4,9mm according to servicemanual.
blah-blah and photographs as needed
Orava: Uh, any sense in this?
Uh, any sense in this?
Er... No!
chartz: Er... No!
Not yet time to open my 50... Push down = Push down evently
Do be careful with that motor, guys.The bell housing distorts very easily and the ring magnet inside is very brittle.There's no room for defects in there.No whacking, no hammers. Only axial pressure on the spindle with no force put on the bell housing.Also remember to note all washers, both the thin thrust washers and the thicker teflon ones. Note their number and positionsand put them back again accordingly.Also note the brass ring has a chamfered edge that goes towards the motor.
Martin
Agree with Dillen, pushing is better than hitting
Orava: Agree with Dillen, pushing is better than hitting
I absolutely agree with you guys, but in my case just pushing wasn´t enough, I had to hit it to get it loose, an extractor build specially for this is ideal, I could make one but I will only use it maybe one time. But if anybody wants one I can make one its no big deal, it can be used to press on the ring again.
Yes, it could be tough... I dont remember what I did with the tough one... Did I hit it?
Orava: chartz: Er... No! Not yet time to open my 50... Push down = Push down evently
Isn't there a risk to break the PCB?
There is a steel plate under the PCB so no problem
I have had the CD50 disconnected for 16 hours now, loaded a disc, it took some 10 secs. to start and started at "0" seconds, before the motor repair it always started from cold, at 15-20 seconds.
Right then.
I'll be away for a few days in Paris (dream on!), so I'll do it when I'm back.
Is the stator solidly fixed to the motor metal plate?
Can I push as hard as I wish?
Do you think à drop of oil would help make the brass ring slide along?
Oh well let's do it before leaving I thought, otherwise this will poison my romantic journey in Paris.
Yeah! A 45-minute job. The brass ring slid along nicely, as per Orava's instructions. I only got 2 nylon washers underneath.
Only small problem, I pushed it back a little too far, but I pulled it a bit and it was fine.
Beogram now sings again everytime I want it to! Yes, even that imposible-to-play CD! About five seconds after pressing play!
Thanks to all!
Poison to romantic journey? Is it impossible to be romantic with CD50 in mind....? Hmm, maybe...
Have a nice trip.
Thats good news Jacques, glad yours came of easier than mine, I used 2 hours, and was sweating because I had to hit it. I put mine back in the stack and whatever I did to it I could not provoke any failures, it played whole evening yesterday. Enjoy Paris, one of my favorite cities, ideal for a romantic journey.
Orava: Have a nice trip.
Søren Mexico: Enjoy Paris, one of my favorite cities, ideal for a romantic journey.
Enjoy Paris, one of my favorite cities, ideal for a romantic journey.
Thanks, only one hour and a half away from home at the speed of 280 km/h!
There I will also get my second 70's Beocord 5000, this time absolutely mint.
Sounds like TGV
Orava: Sounds like TGV
Yes.
By the way, to readjust the CD table I made a plastic shim the exact height, thus making measurement unnecessary.
Orava: Poison to romantic journey? Is it impossible to be romantic with CD50 in mind....? Hmm, maybe...
Yes - with a malfunctioning CD 50 in mind, it could be difficult...
Hai
I think i have the same problem, do you still have the pictures ??
it would be helpful to me
thanks a lot
Some pics back
Maybe an old thread but ...
As my CD50 went silent some month ago, i mean there was suddenly no way to read any CD, nada, nothing ... i replaced it with my Beogran CD 7000. Nevertheless; the elapsing time reading that i had before was just missing, so i decided to try to give some more life to my beloved CD50 ! First of all i read tall the threads to finaly hope that just a radial & focus adjusment would be enough to give life back to the player ! So i did adjust everything i could : the radial & focus voltages, the Im current ... but unfortunately there were no improvments ... the CD50 were still silent ... I mean everything looked ok, motors were spinning but ... did not read any tracks ... So i decided to go for THE motor cleaning. After all it could not be worse than nothing at all in my speakers ... Thanks to Soren, Orava and Jacques, i did manage to clean the beast with no major issues ...
And at the end, when i screwed the last one and put the plug in, i was sweating a bit inserting a test CD ... But tada, as incredibly as it could appear, track 1 was read in only a few seconds ! YES my CD50 was back to life again !!! So THANKS to all of you as you really did help me for this one.
Ok i have to recognize that everything is not perfect. I mean that most of my CD's are perfectly read, even some old burned stuff, but on some CDs, i have a jittering sound that i can not explain ...
Anyway, that's not so important, my CD50 is back !!! (and the 7000 is back to the attic !)
Err, if anyone has some ideas regarding this jittering ...
Cheers to all
I forgot ! sorry for the quality but i'm not very good with pictures ...
I have the jittering on some CDs too, I dont know what causes it, but I have the same on my Beosound 3000, not on specific CDs, can be an old one or new one it just comes up irratic, i can move a CD that jitters from one to another player and it plays perfectly in the other unit. I have been wondering about distance from lazer to disc, focus adjustment and maybe caps, but as the Beosound does the same I am still wondering.
Well done Aja!
Hi Søren!
Hi Jacques well we are still here and kicking
Thanks gents ! i suppose i will have to leave with it (this is the reason why i have the Marantz as alternate ... )
Sorry for commenting on an old post.I've been trying to fix my CD50 which has similar problems to the ones you had here. So I'm trying to adjust the Radial and Focus Bias to see if that helps.
But I'm having a bit of trouble using my multimeter (DMM). What reference did you use for the negative terminal on the DMM? I've tried the chassis, logical ground on one the PCB and a few other placed I thought it might be. But no matter what, adjusting the variable resistors does not change the voltage at TP8 and TP6.
Could it be that I have not correctly shorted TR336 to the chassis?
Any help would be awesome.Cheers,Luke
Which testCD are you using?
Hi Martin,I'm not using the test disk.Adjusting the Radial and Focal Bias do not require a test disk. Just for the unit to be in stand-by mode with no disk inserted
So i've managed to figure out radial and focus bias. Seems to be working a bit better. But for the more complex adjustments I will require a test disk. Can any test disc without defects be used? Or does it have to be one of the two that are quoted in the service manual?
Pictures are the key...... never leave home without them.
Beogram 4000, Beogram 4002, Beogram 4004, Beogram 8000, Beogram 8002, Beogram 1602. Beogram 4500 CD player, B&O CDX player, Beocord 4500, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 8004, Beocord 9000, Beomaster 1000, Beomaster 1600, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 4400, Beomaster 4500, Beolab 5000, Beomaster 5000, BeoCenter 9000. BeoSound Century, S-45.2, S-45.2, S-75, S-75, M-75, M-100, MC 120.2 speakers; B&O Illuminated Sign (with crown & red logo). B&O grey & black Illuminated Sign, B&O black Plexiglas dealer sign, B&O ash tray, B&O (Orrefors) dealer award vase, B&O Beotime Clock. Navy blue B&O baseball cap, B&O T-shirt X2, B&O black ball point pen, B&O Retail Management Binder
That we are Soren. You said you "wanted me back," well sir, I am back.
Naturally, knowing me, I have bitten off more than I can chew with not one but TWO Beocord 5000's.
And Jacques, they DO chomp up tapes with genuine relish. That is the ABSOLUTE first thing the one deck did, it ripped my favourite tape into little indistinguishable pieces. Took over an hour to piece it all back together. (That tape is now safely tucked away in a gift Beocord 4500, from the Netherlands)
That said, I have played over a dozen full passes with the errant Beocord 5000, and no tape chomping, just splendid music.
I am still in awe of the remarkable photos that Soren takes, makes such good sense of everything.
Jeff
Hi Jeff!
How are you?
Wrong thread perhaps?
Hi Jacques,
Doing just fine, thank you for asking. How are you kind sir?
I kinda, sorta lost interest here when the site stop sending email notifications that someone had responded to a thread.
Soren had asked me to "come back," and with me clearly over my head with these two Beocord 5000's, I am here to see if I can't get these two decks fully working.
As an aside, I finally got all my "crown jewels" together, for the first time.
The Beogram 4000 had been in the media room, but with McIntosh still out of action, since June 2017, going unused. I really didn't like that, so I did a all new set-up in the living room, over-crowded to be sure, but visually appealing..... with WONDERFUL sound.
Once John finished the Beomaster 4400, that freed up the Beolab 5000 for more important work..... in the living room. I also moved my newly acquired M100 speakers to complete the ensemble.
P.S. I think my favourite speakers are the M75's with their French tweeter, as you mentioned previously. The M100's are superb, but something about the smaller speaker strikes me as perfect.