ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
There!
Eddie (Valve1) and his lovely wife were here this morning with a beautiful gift (not really ) from Denmark, an unrestored Beocord 2400. Something to keep me (and Søren I guess, do you mind?) busy for the next few weeks.
Thanks again Eddie for your service, that was really nice! It was really nice talking to you too, although you did most of the talking!
Stay tuned...
Jacques
Really nice.I am getting to my BC2400 within a week or maximum two.C
My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.
Thats good news Jacques, congrats, cant wait for the first report and pics
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
No matter how hard I searched, I couldn't fiand any pictures of the BC2400 mechanics.
I did find something though!
First picture. A bit (2 hours) of cleaning. The capstan wheel is completely shot, it is hard and dented. To the bin.
The right brake lever has lost its cork. This will be an easy fix, I've got cork sheets somewhere in the dungeons (this is a martinism ).
That rubber debris are horrible: no problem on alu, but on steel it is bad news, oxydizing it badly.
Not powered yet, but Frede did it and it went well, so no worries here I guess.
The counter belt seems fine.
I am a little busy today, will open up mine again tomorrow, and go along with you.
Good! Looking forward to that Søren!
Good luck to you both. My BC2400 is out in the garage and gets used at least weekly. It's a solid piece of equipment. Hard to believe, but it retailed for $500 US in the 70's. Not so hard to believe is that it was fairly well regarded by some magazines I've seen on Tapeheads.net.
Delighted to be to be able to Beoassist and meet you both.
You have a stunning collection of restored classics.
We traveled through some great looking villages in your area after. Have it chalked in for some cycling in the future.
Got to our place and was lucky enough to get the only parking spot in the village. Total distance was 4050k.... beer time now
Looking forward to your restoration !
I found a broken spring and one at the bottom of the deck. I will have to figure out what these are for. More dismantling tomorrow!
Here's the back of the Beocord. I had to buy this special screwdriver (nutdriver?) to access the four nuts.
JUST BEAUTIFUL
Here you see one of the two connectors that allow the command panel and the electronics to be removed.
You do have to lift the amplifier pcbs to have access to two of the three screws (shown in the service manual, screws n° 54 p 79).
The broken-and-found-wandering-inside-the-box springs...
The home-made replacement.You can see the heads, well-worn. This recorder was actually used and maintained, I certainly wasn't the first to get inside (fingerprints at several places, screwheads).
The new brake pad. I cut it from a sheet of cork and superglued it to the lever. How did you remove the left drive wheel Søren?
The new capstan wheel. Really easy to remove, you just pull the shaft once the little cover is removed. Much simpler than Revox...
One more question, how do you grind a rubber wheel that has irregularities on its edge to be perfectly rounded? The rubber is good and grippy, so I suppose I can save it (the FFW wheel above).
Of course, I don't have a lathe!
Thanks for any tips on that matter.
The electronics, with the two connectors (photo 2).
chartz:Of course, I don't have a lathe!
I do. Bring it with you next week and we'll see what we can do with it.
Dave.
chartz: How did you remove the left drive wheel Søren?
At the end of the shaft there is a pressure retainer ring, remove that and it comes out, if I remember right. When out it comes apart as shown, and it all will have to be adjusted and greased before assembly.
On the right drive, you will have to remove the pulley for the counter drive, which also has a function for the brake/clutch function, and has to be adjusted, when assembling
There you will have to check the lift arm with felt, on mine the felt was loose, so I cleaned it and glued it back
To remove the retainer rings you will need one of these
Damn they found me, only one star I will have to renew my membership
Thanks Søren.
It seems that the 2400 is a bit different, look:
No circlip, and the brake is over the second step!
Is the shaft just stuck? I can't take it out. I'll see whether ther's a side allen screw.
Edit: yes there IS a screw!
chartz:Edit: yes there IS a screw!
You can even see it in my pic
Søren Mexico: chartz:Edit: yes there IS a screw! You can even see it in my pic
Oh yes, I see it now!
Damn!
By the way... Can't do without when fixing Beocords and Beograms!
A bit of cabinet making today!
First, sanding (240 grit to erase surface defects) and then finishing off with iron wool. I insist on doing this operation by hand, I almost never use a block because it will take off too much veneer. The edges are particularly vulnerable to sanding.
After iron wool sanding, before oiling with teck oil. There were tiny bits of missing veneer, which after repair and sanding I can't spot! I used a bit of veneer that I got from another member, thanks to him Sorry, I forgot to take pictures
The bottom of the deck, with the usual 'surprise'. Relatively clean. The diagrams will remain in the envelope.
The power lead is captive, and you can see its storage box here (top left).
Jacques, I am impressed by your enthusiasm
Thanks Eddie, but don't be, every piece of B&O you saw at home had the same treatment... I buy cheap!
Oiling... Many applications will be necessary to soak the wood completely.
These won't do. I'll have to cut new pieces of black cardboard. They protect the wood at the left and right edges.
After the removal of this PSU, access to the pulley - and to the belt - is easy. A new belt was fitted.
Has someone been here before? What's a little acetone anyway?
Yuck!
EDIT - Jan. 4 2015 : I realised the diodes were in fact a wrong replacement for a 3-amp bridge (because the PSU has to power the amps). I therefore fitted a correct B80C3700-2200 bridge.
After some cleaning...
This is the end of tape automatism disengagement switch, it turns the detection bulb off. The solder tag solder joint was dry, leaving the wire lose between the play and pause levers, thus disturbing their actions!
I jump in here, as I have just started some work on my BC2400the connectors on the board I cleaned with silver polish, and then after that some alcohol to get ride of left overs.
Question.My back plate , bottom plate under the wooden chassi..was nailed...is this correct ?
Christian Christensen: Question.My back plate , bottom plate under the wooden chassi..was nailed...is this correct ?
Yes, this is correct. I had to mask it to do the paint job of the black bottom part.
Welcome aboard!
What a nice thread! This is what I have missed
Might give my own Beocord 1800 the same treatment and install her in my current system. Even two open-reel decks in one system isn't enough though...
Do you want to recap and rebias them, too?
@Søren: Do I spot the B&O reel that I gave you when you visited me?
@Eddy: Did you get the whole 5000 system back home safely? What did SWMBO say to the Beovox'es?
Vinyl records, cassettes, open reel, valve amplifiers and film photography.
Mine BC2400 i in excellent shape, so I have chosen reburb to :Recap record and playback card.recap power supplyrecap line input cardrecap speaker output capsHAvent found motor- caps yet, if I find them I will replacereplace pinch roller with new.polishing contacts on the cards.oil to motor.cleaning some mechanicsdemagnitising headsreplacing lampsAzimuth adjustment ( one problem azimuth screw is half broken..dont know how to solve that )checking in and outputs levelsadjusting record Bias.Something like that. :)Feel free to ask question or tip me on good things to think about regarding this particular machine.Christian
Ahh motorcaps was on the other side...will go and pickup new ones tomorrow
Chris why change all the caps, I checked mine and only 2-3 was out of specs
I have an ,a clear prupose with the refurb.I want to maximaze the audio quality of the recordings.Adjust the BC2400 to its maximum., with brand new Emtec tapes.I have an experiemnet.I have heard rumours from serveral directions that a BC2400 performes just as good as a Revox.So...I bought myself a Pr99, only for this for this experiment.I want to compare.There for I want all the caps in the line from line input to tape and from tape to be fresh. before I start tuning all levels.I think like this, if I bought myself a Pr99 I can just aswell take 3 hours to replace this audio line of caps in the BC2400The BC2400 is up for a recording competition against a Pr99
...crazy...aint I ? ;)
Søren Hammer:@Eddy: Did you get the whole 5000 system back home safely? What did SWMBO say to the Beovox'es?
Not to hijack the thread, I got it out of the van and upstairs and no more. SWAMBO is ok with the BVs
I will do a write up.... if I ever find the time that being retired is supposed to have lots off.
Søren Hammer: @Søren: Do I spot the B&O reel that I gave you when you visited me?
Hi Søren H! Have you seen this?
valve1:I will do a write up.... if I ever find the time that being retired is supposed to have lots off.
That's what my mum and my step parents have kept telling me
We are looking forward to the pictures!
The electronics: I will inspect every single card, check voltages and quiescent currents when I have finished the transport. Not quite there yet.
Christian, if the Papst motor starts fine, why replace the capacitor?
Could you show me the path of that bulb switch wire in your Beocord 2400? It seems to always be in the way of something!
And yes, buying a PR99 to compare the Beocord with is crazy.
Jacques, so no risk for the motor if the caps would open ?
Christian Christensen: Jacques, so no risk for the motor if the caps would open ?
No, it simply won't start unless helped by hand. Of course you don't want to let it like that!
The only time I've ever changed a start cap was on my ReVox G36 because the take-up reel was desperately slow when the spool was full.