ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Yes, that's the one. Since you are in Sweden, you could give Josef Svalander a ring.
Jacques
of course I could but I am anyway very curious how the result was of your wheels.I dont think anyone here have tried his service yet....
My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.
I'll tell you when I get the wheel! It is a bit longish (4-5 weeks).
Jacques,
My bridge rectifier turned up this morning, but there is a problem:
Bridge by pchristy65, on Flickr
The one on the right is the original, the one on the left the replacement. The pin connections are different, even though the physical spacing is the same!
A warning to others who may be looking for this part: CHECK THE PINOUTS before fitting a replacement!
Luckily my high current discrete diodes have turned up today as well, along with some electrolytic capacitors. However it may be a few days before I can fit them, as my attention is currently on my other piece of Scandinavian hardware that I am restoring.....
100_2329 by pchristy65, on Flickr
--
Pete
Oh! It must be the first time I see a rectifier bridge with this pinout! It is most definitely wrong. A counterfeit? I would not use it and bin it immediately.
Should be like this:
Nice car!
Hi Jacques,
Yes, the rectifier is obviously no use to me - I was expecting it to be like yours! Luckily I have received a packet of 1N5404 diodes, which should be more than adequate.
The new electrolytics are physically much smaller than the originals, even though they are the same rating. I will check out the originals more carefully before replacing them, I think! If there is no significant ripple on the output, I may leave well alone.
Cheers,
Exactly what I did. I kept them.
Hi!
I have received the "new" rubber wheel!
It's going back.
chartz: Hi! I have received the "new" rubber wheel! It's going back.
Do you mean 'back' to the manufacturer? What was wrong with it after such a long wait?
Dave.
PM Dave!
I have asked Svalander some general question about that service.And he said that they gather enough wheels under a month to send a big package away for this workSo ..that is the answer for the long wait.
any noticable deifferens of lower belling ? :)
Christian Christensen: any noticable deifferens of lower belling ? :)
Sorry?
chartz: Christian Christensen: any noticable deifferens of lower belling ? :) Sorry?
'Lower Belling' sounds like a quaint old English village! Not sure what you mean there Christian.
That rectifier... I've seen many counterfeit parts but I think this one beats the lot.They didn't even manage to get the pinout right - or maybe the pinout is right and the lettering is wrong.Not that it matters much, it's probably just an empty shell with nothing inside, not unlike some prescaler ICs I boughta couple of months ago. Have you checked?
Martin
Dave.You described that the lower flywheel that is connected to the motor, is causeing the hum level.And that if rubber on the flywheel is not soft enought, the flyweel "bells".So Sorry that I did my own construction of the english language.I was wondering if the new flywhell has decreised the motorhum that spdread in the chassiC
OK, it's Jacque's machine but I understand now I think. If the rubber is too hard, I suppose it can resonate and produce a 'hum' or slight 'ringing' sound.
Christian Christensen: I was wondering if the new flywheel has decreased the motor hum that spread in the chassis.
I was wondering if the new flywheel has decreased the motor hum that spread in the chassis.
No, that's one of the problems. It actually made it worse. And the motor itself is completely silent. The old wheel was much, much better... and it still was bad!
But the job will be done again free of charge of course. Another five weeks' wait then I suppose.
please keep us update on that wheel. Christian
Of course.
Still waiting. I hope the result is worth the wait...
Good evening!
The new idler wheel has finally made it home. It looks exactly like the original one, in shape and dimensions. It looks like a new old stock one, so the job was nicely done this time (unless Josef sent me a NOS one ). It is not silent, but the noise level is now acceptable and there is no more wow.
I am expecting a genuine B&O stamped NOS one for the rewind function, we'll see.
Cheers!
And today I got the NOS idler wheel, perfect! I will now tackle the electronic restoration (new caps mainly).
To be continued...
Perhaps this is the final piece of the puzzle... Frede found it for me, as promised Thank you!
Some polishing will be required as usual. Good thing the front logo is intact!
Don't you just love to behold it?
That is really nice. It looks brand new. John
A beauty Jacques, I have just ordered spare caps for my BC 2000, transistors for my BM 1900 and 2400, the BC 2000 is sitting on my dining table apart in the main pieces, Monday the parts will arrive, in the weekend I will take a shot on one slide potentiometer, I saw something like a lock piece at the end of the poti. it may be possible to take them apart without much work. Will be back with more next week. I am a little nervous about the germanium TRs there are a lot of them in there. But it worked nearly very good when I tested. I have new tapes (RMG SM 911) waiting. My compliments to your good work.
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Hi Søren,
I am confident that you will succeed!
The hard work, apart from the sliders, will be head adjustment. You need a good tape recorded on a well-aligned machine to do that should you decide on replacing those cushions underneath the heads and the guides.
The Beocord 2400 has springs, but both heads were shot!
Let's hope the germanium transistors will be fine. Do keep in mind I had a bad recifier on my Beocord 1500 though.
Looks fantastic Jacques, I really need a better lid for my BC1800.
I'm not sure mine has the logo on the top either actually. Did they all have that do you know?
Ben
No they didn't all have a logo. But I have seen that many have the recess. What was there in the first place?
It does look better on the picture than it really is, but I haven't finished the polishing process yet. It requires a lot of work, and I absolutely refuse to use abrasive paper, or micro-mesh for that matter. You can never quite get full transparency with this method. Those who have seen my restored dust-covers have been impressed
So I start polishing, then forget about it for a few weeks, and get back to it until the result is satisfactory. I couldn't run a business that way, but that's the beauty of DIY.
chartz: No they didn't all have a logo. But I have seen that many have the recess. What was there in the first place? It does look better on the picture than it really is, but I haven't finished the polishing process yet. It requires a lot of work, and I absolutely refuse to use abrasive paper, or micro-mesh for that matter. You can never quite get full transparency with this method. Those who have seen my restored dust-covers have been impressed So I start polishing, then forget about it for a few weeks, and get back to it until the result is satisfactory. I couldn't run a business that way, but that's the beauty of DIY.
I think mine has the recess too.
My lid is an absolutely terrible state though. I think it is beyond satisfactory repair really as there are two scratches which are both very deep. Goodness knows how that happened but there we are. Weirdly, the other item I have which is similar is my other reel player (Beocord 1100).
I think you are right with the abrasive paper, I have tried it before on another lid and despite spending hours on it I couldn't get it to look as good as I wanted to. It seems you have managed to find a way to do them properly though!
A nosy question, who is Joseph that sells NOS idler wheels, I am VERY interested
"And today I got the NOS idler wheel, perfect"Where did you get hold of a new old stock idler wheel ?So after you had Joseph redo the job, you still got hold of a NOS. ?Who has these spareparts ? I would dearly dearly buy a couple myself if I knew who to turn to... :)
anyone that knows how to accsess and from what angle the screw that holds the bronze wheel to the motor ?
Christian Christensen: anyone that knows how to accsess and from what angle the screw that holds the bronze wheel to the motor ?
If I remember right its a M4x6 Allen grub screw, Allen key 2 mm, what I dont remember is how to get at it, but maybe you may have to take the motor out
Thats the problem, Søren , cant get the motor out without getting to that screw
That hex key needs to be a bit longer than the usual ones, but I managed to take the stepped pulley out from the top of the machine. Not difficult at all.
I didnt, had to take out motor from backside of the chassi