ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi everyone,
Bumping this thread as the drive belt in my CD-50 is on its last legs. Can anyone offer proper belt dimensions? Preferably in standard naming SCY##, SCX## etc. Mine is woefully stretched and hardened or I would put the calipers on it. https://www.elliottelectronicsupply.com/square-drive-belts.html
I have fashioned a makeshift tensioner out of some teflon wire to keep her in service until I can get a new belt. The cam follower/CD spindle lift at the end is soooo slow. A re-lube is in order too, running the sled in and out feels really tight & sticky. What is a good white grease to use?
Welcome to the forum, member Dillen ( Martin) on this forum can provide the correct belts, I have been using a silicone grease for my units
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
twomartinis: What is a good white grease to use?
What is a good white grease to use?
White lithium grease.As the original.
Martin
Thanks, anyone know the drive belt dimensions? Cross section and inside circumference? I suppose I could figure it out (or at least get close); but I'd rather have the correct information...
https://www.elliottelectronicsupply.com/square-drive-belts.html
Would one of you mates have a spare Beogram CD50 IR module, sans CD controler?
If so, please send me a PM.
Thanks!
Jacques
Hi Jacques, I have 2 CD 50 not working, send me a pic of the IR module and I will open them to look for it. if one of them have it, I can send it with my son to Copenhagen in January, and he to you from there
Will get to it tomorrow
Sorry Jacques
One more sorry
Okay then, never mind 😢
Thanks for looking!
Thank you Søren, excellent writeup now my CD50 is as new after 10+ years in the closet.A note on the turntable height, my service manual says adjust to 4.9 +/- 0.05 mm.That is too much in my player, used a 4,5 mm drill bit for spacing with success.The belt dimension is 43.5 x 1.40 mm square.
chartz: it was all down to setting the brass piece over the big wheel. Too high and the disc won't be clamped, too low and the puck will rub on its holder!
it was all down to setting the brass piece over the big wheel. Too high and the disc won't be clamped, too low and the puck will rub on its holder!
Hi chartz,
Could you please elaborate on that brass piece to adjust ? I'm experiencing the same problem and would like to know how to fix it.
Thank you !
Hi,
It is the brass piece that sits on the cam guide, you can’t miss it.
Thank you for your prompt reply!
Is it the big nut on the wheel that drives the drawer ?, if so I'm unfortunate because it seems it is definitely stuck.
But I've just seen in the service manual there is an adjustment for turntable height, do you think it could be a track to follow ?
I've not touched it, but someone undoubtedly has.The belt was changed because there is one inside (looking good) and also the remains of the previous which I've cleaned.
I've cleaned the new belt as much as i could but i'm gonna check it dont slip though.
Could you roughly explain how that bolt connect to the clamping mechanism? I'de like to understand the path to check it all.
I know that when the cam do a full revolution it actuate a lever that elevate the black cup, rising the disc from its cradle and pushing it against the motor shaft. I now it goes to that step. But after that, I believe the disc should stay (magically, as Søren said) stuc to the top brass piece and thats where it dont.The disc comme down with the black holder and the motor spins in the air.
Also the big nut can not allow height adjustment of the cam since his height is blocked by the little arrow shaped piece that pushes the contacts when the cam rotate.
Just trying to understand how it works…
I believe the unit as been serviced by someone with not much caution. But nothing that can be undone so far.
By the way, my unit looks more like yours than Søren's: no "garage" and the little additional PCB.
Thank for our help.
Hi Soren!New cd50 owner here. Got it and have discovered absolutely destroyed gears for the laser pick-up positioning. The worm gear and both tooth gears are sort of deteeriorated partially, I've never seen it before. Looks like the grease has caused some terrible reaction.The rest of the player is working, I've managed to make it play a bit by positioning the laser manually, so it's restoreable, except for the three plastic gears.If you have this gears - I'll be happy to offer you some exchange, like I have some tubes or other parts :)Thanks!Michael
ps: I was trying to attach the picture, but can not figure out how.pps: uploaded to Media: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/media/p/321479.aspx
Hi Misho
I have a mostly intact rough condition CD50 you can have... especially if you are local to Chicago. It originally had a dead door opening IC, which I replaced so now it loads and plays, sort of, but needs further repairs. I believe the gear set is still good.
Shipping would probably cost a fair bit as these things are heavy!
¡No entiendo Español!
NEIN! Nicht Versteh!
Я немного говорю по-русскии но не очень хорошо... и
I'm not very good at English either! Maybe someday I'll find a language I'm good at?
Hi Keri!Thanks a lot for reply! I'm living in Europe, so shipping of the whole will be unpractical, but if you can ship only the positioning motor assembly, it's easy to remove - only two screws, and shipping in a packet will not cost an arm and leg...I will gladly cover the shipping expenses, and I will owe you!Michael
Keri: Hi Misho I have a mostly intact rough condition CD50 you can have... especially if you are local to Chicago. It originally had a dead door opening IC, which I replaced so now it loads and plays, sort of, but needs further repairs. I believe the gear set is still good. Shipping would probably cost a fair bit as these things are heavy!
I have a CD50 I bought for spares, and you can have the motor assembly but shipping from Mexico is insecure or expensive, because of the virus my next trip to Denmark wil be in May next year, if you dont find the assembly in Europe and you can wait until May, just tell me and I will bring it with me
Søren Mexico: I have a CD50 I bought for spares, and you can have the motor assembly but shipping from Mexico is insecure or expensive, because of the virus my next trip to Denmark wil be in May next year, if you dont find the assembly in Europe and you can wait until May, just tell me and I will bring it with me
Dear Soren, there is for sure no hurry at all, and if I will not find anything by May - I will be happy to get your parts!
Shipping inside EU is much less expensive, and waaaaay more secure for sure, those terrible times, looks like EU going for lock-down again.Thanks!Misho
OK, I will get it stripped down over the weekend
Keri
Misho: Dear Soren, there is for sure no hurry at all, and if I will not find anything by May - I will be happy to get your parts! Shipping inside EU is much less expensive, and waaaaay more secure for sure, those terrible times, looks like EU going for lock-down again.Thanks!Misho
Just contact me if you dont find before May, and I will bring the assembly with me, have you tried Dillen on the forum ?
Hi. I've read through this thread which is very interesting. Did anyone get to the bottom of the idiosyncratic nature of the CD50? Mine opens/closes spins and plays eventually. After opening closing or putting in standby. Some discs are better than others which I don't get. Some won't play without jittering like crazy. They keep jumping backwards like vinyl 😁. Some play all the way from 0.00 without fault. 🤔. My machine has not been apart. I'm loathed to touch it and make it worse or same after pulling apart. Any thoughts?
Thanks
Greg
Hi all!I seem to have caught a time-consuming disease. I picked up a job-lot of cheap un-specified B&O kit for fun, no prior experience but in trying to work through the pieces and get them working again, I've found an enjoyable past-time. It's been fun learning and I now have a working Beocom 2 and Beocom 6000 in my house, I'm waiting on rubber to re-foam a pair of CX-50 speakers and a super looking beotalk 1100 to look at (it works fine, but I have no use for it). I also got an earset 2 and beolink pc2 to look at one day, but not sure they are worthwhile.I'm looking at my CD-50 right now, it's in ok shape and I think we can make this work. Problems are:-1. I'm struggling getting reliable drawer movement and disk clamping, I just can't find the right position for the brass nut on the cam spindle which allows me to have both. I think I will try to replace the belt and see if that helps me get that working.2. When the disk clamps correctly and it reads a disk, early tracks start playing at 30 to 60 seconds in. I gather for this I need to clean the motor, so that's on my list to do.
3. I'm missing the metal pieces and screws which hold the case together, I'm not sure how to go about replacing those. It probably doesn't matter if this forms part of a stack, but it's a bit irritating. Are these things available anywhere?
double post
Hi everybody,
my name is Marin, nick is 69er.
i am new to the B&O world and have currently a post open regarding a beomaster 6500.
but here I would like to get some help on my newly (as broken) acquired beo cd 50.
the starting point was that he fired up, but did nothing.
just the display on.
i dismantled everything and found the old broken belt.
i replaced it with something similar (not original) and the he loaded the cd and the motor tried to move the cd, but it just jiggled a little bit back and forth.
i used the description here in this post ;thanx for the helpers!
i dismantled the motor, cleaned it and put it back together.
maybe the distance is not longer the same (how accurate do I have to be? - it was approx. 4,86mm before dismantling)
now the motor doesn’t turn at all.
without a cd it spins freely when I turn it with my fingers.
where did I make a mistake?
best regards from germany
69er
As the motor isn’t moving at all now, I tried to check voltages on all the cables going towards him.
can’t measure anything (just mv).
anybody an idea.
before I dismantled the motor he somehow seemed to try to turn. When moving by hand it turns freely.
also without cd (disc check moved out) he doesn’t move.
seems now more an electrical issue. Or a switch?
best regards
Ok, one step further.
it was the switch, which shows the motor that it can start.
adjusted the biggest wheel again and put some grease everywhere needed.
now the motor starts and runs really freely (first in the one then the other direction) - all without a cd.
when I put a cd, the motor cannnot move it (I hear him trying 🙄).
changed several times the distance between the Downholder and the chassis.
All around 5mm
cannot make him turn the cd.
i measured the voltage during spin. All pins below 1v. Seems to low, isn’t it.
does anybody know, what voltage powers the motor? Maybe there’s the error
best regards and thanx for any help - it’s my first cd50
I think it's just a matter of adjustment, starting with the cam wheel position and the turntable height.
You really should have marked everything... now it will be trial and error I guess.
yes, I expect some trial and error.
but only on the height, as I got it until this point now.
motor drives (without cd)
but just to be sure, that there is not an electrical issue:
does anybody know, what voltage makes the motor turn?
i measured only something below 1v
Just checked again,
it’s more something about 2,9v. Got this on several pins, measured against the far left (brown). But only short.
the voltage then shrinks down to mv.
really tricky this cd50
The large cam cog has to be fully rotated, such that the cam follower engages with the microswitch to enable the disc motor to be triggered. Try helping the wheel round, sometimes it can struggle with the final few degrees of rotation.
Exactly my thought.
Thanx, but I am over that.
Large cam cog is working. The switch gets contacted.
the motor turns, but he cannot move the cd.
the motor is being cleaned, so I think it’s freely rotating.
if I simulate a cd, then it runs. But with a real cd, he’s not strong enough
idiotgap: I'm looking at my CD-50 right now, it's in ok shape and I think we can make this work. Problems are:-1. I'm struggling getting reliable drawer movement and disk clamping, I just can't find the right position for the brass nut on the cam spindle which allows me to have both. I think I will try to replace the belt and see if that helps me get that working.2. When the disk clamps correctly and it reads a disk, early tracks start playing at 30 to 60 seconds in. I gather for this I need to clean the motor, so that's on my list to do. 3. I'm missing the metal pieces and screws which hold the case together, I'm not sure how to go about replacing those. It probably doesn't matter if this forms part of a stack, but it's a bit irritating. Are these things available anywhere?
I'm looking at my CD-50 right now, it's in ok shape and I think we can make this work. Problems are:-1. I'm struggling getting reliable drawer movement and disk clamping, I just can't find the right position for the brass nut on the cam spindle which allows me to have both. I think I will try to replace the belt and see if that helps me get that working.2. When the disk clamps correctly and it reads a disk, early tracks start playing at 30 to 60 seconds in. I gather for this I need to clean the motor, so that's on my list to do.
I am in big trouble at home, since I last posted here I've been compelled to buy 2 Beogram 2000 turntables (one old wooden type and the other is an 80's aluminium version, plus a pair of redline speakers (45.2). I think the aluminium turntable and the CD-50 will look great in a mini-stack together.Anyway...1. I bought a belt from Martin, fitted it and now the cd loads and clamps beautifully. Success!2. Job for tomorrow is to refurb the cd spindle motor. 3. How to deal with missing case clamps is still a mystery, I'll have to hunt around a bit more on that.
Sorry, I don’t understand your answer to the above mentioned issues
Hope this explains things a little more clearly.1. Adjustment of the brass nut on top of the large cam wheel was proving trickyToo loose -> the transport was free to move so the disc would load in and out of the machine easily, but the disc wouldn't be read. Loosening the nut lowers the cd away from the motorToo tight -> the CD transport needed too much effort to move and the disc wouldn't load completely, though if I helped the cam wheel move through it's complete rotation the disc would load successfully and you could listen to a CD.I ordered a new drive belt from forum user "Dillen" aka Martin's webshop https://www.beoparts-shop.com/The new belt was half the length of the old one, I wonder if someone had tried a random belt as it wasn't degraded, just baggy. The new belt, once fitted allowed the transport to move more confidently and I was quickly able to get the brass nut adjusted to allow both disc loading and clamping.
2. When reading CDs the player would start part way through track 1, maybe a minute in. As covered earlier in this thread, the remedy for that is to clean the spindle motor. I did that this morning and now the discs read more quickly and it plays the whole track, another great result!3. I still have no solution for this problem, the case of the machine comes off easily, there are no screws holding it on to the chassis of the machine. This doesn't cause a problem in normal use, though it's a bit annoying.I'm still looking for a solution to this, not having the existing hardware or other similar pizzabox machines I'm not even sure what to fabricate.More research needed.