ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Per: Yes, you are right it says 6", I didnt notice that. Anyone got experience with the good hifi-set? Are the rings too small?
Yes, you are right it says 6", I didnt notice that. Anyone got experience with the good hifi-set? Are the rings too small?
I wanted to order from him, but I asked for the dimensions first, I don't remember which of the dimensions was off, but I told him and never got an answer for another size. The ones i got from US Ebay fits perfectly, check here
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
I bought the Good Hifi RL140 foam surrounds to repair my RL 140's last year. Looking back at my purchase, they also say 6" but they fit my RL140 woofers perfectly. I would send Good Hifi an email to double-check but they probably just have a typo error on their advertisement. The Good Hifi surrounds you provided the link for are rubber surrounds. The original surrounds are foam. Did you want to switch to rubber so you don't have to replace them again in the future?
-sonavor
Sonavor: Thanks for making me aware of this. Too much alchohol when buying stuff on ebay, not a good idea However, if rubber is equally good as foam (?) and the fit is as you say, perfect, I would not mind using rubber instead of foam. Might be a typo for sure. Have to check that out with Good Hifi.
Maybe these are more adequate?
Søren: Yes, I have read your guide. Will take everything into consideration However, havent decided whether to shim or not. That Ebay seller doesent ship to Norway =/
Per: Maybe these are more adequate? Søren: Yes, I have read your guide. Will take everything into consideration However, havent decided whether to shim or not. That Ebay seller doesent ship to Norway =/
The Audiofriend link has the same dimensions as mine, except for "C" where I have 159 Mm.
But if John says his came out good, not to worry, but check it. As for foam or rubber, original is foam, I dont think you will hear difference, but we try to keep it original.
The surrounds from audiofriends you linked to are probably good as well. Good HiFi also has their own web site if you don't want to go through Ebay. Theoretically the rubber surrounds will sound different than the foam surrounds but I have never experimented to find out. I figure that rubber surrounds were available when these speakers were originally made so the foam surrounds were chosen for good reason by the designers. The RL 140 woofers have very little play in cone travel so I would recommend using shims. I use varying thicknesses of acetate sheets to create shims.
sonavor: The surrounds from audiofriends you linked to are probably good as well. Good HiFi also has their own web site if you don't want to go through Ebay. Theoretically the rubber surrounds will sound different than the foam surrounds but I have never experimented to find out. I figure that rubber surrounds were available when these speakers were originally made so the foam surrounds were chosen for good reason by the designers. The RL 140 woofers have very little play in cone travel so I would recommend using shims. I use varying thicknesses of acetate sheets to create shims. -sonavor
Thanks for the input guys. Appreceiate it. Will investigate further and I will keep you guys updated
.
Brengen & Ophalen
Leslie: Remember? Rings from GoodHifi are an excellent fit and no shimming done! Sold mine and customer is extremely happy with the result. Got another 2 pair to do. Caps bought at my local store or as Bos00 suggested at Intertechnik?
Remember?
Rings from GoodHifi are an excellent fit and no shimming done! Sold mine and customer is extremely happy with the result. Got another 2 pair to do. Caps bought at my local store or as Bos00 suggested at Intertechnik?
Those of us who likes to do a professional job, prefers the shimming method, also because we like to control what we are doing, and most of us keeps our items for years as collectors. I understand that some sellers has other views and choose the cheap fast track, and concentrate on the look of things.
Søren Mexico: Leslie: Remember? Rings from GoodHifi are an excellent fit and no shimming done! Sold mine and customer is extremely happy with the result. Got another 2 pair to do. Caps bought at my local store or as Bos00 suggested at Intertechnik? Those of us who likes to do a professional job, prefers the shimming method, also because we like to control what we are doing, and most of us keeps our items for years as collectors. I understand that some sellers has other views and choose the cheap fast track, and concentrate on the look of things.
Reminds me of the old loudspeaker design axiom - deep bass, high efficiency, small cabinet size, pick any two.
Jeff
I'm afraid I'm recovering from the BeoVirus.
There we go again ...
Vintage Bang & Olufsen
Hey guys, please do not fight again...
We are all here for the same reason, we love B&O!
Please do not forget this ...
Yes I have read through a lot of threads regarding shimming, both here and other forums , and I understand that there is a divided opinion about this. Although I feel more than apt in handling electronic circuitry, this will be my first speaker job. I know there are a lot of pros and cons, but I have to take my skill into consideration. I belive I will try without the shimming method for this first pair, and trying it for the second pair.
Well said indeed
Per: Yes I have read through a lot of threads regarding shimming, both here and other forums , and I understand that there is a divided opinion about this. Although I feel more than apt in handling electronic circuitry, this will be my first speaker job. I know there are a lot of pros and cons, but I have to take my skill into consideration. I belive I will try without the shimming method for this first pair, and trying it for the second pair.
I don't want to re-open the debate but I will say this. I have done a number of repairs on new speaker surrounds without shimming in the past so I know first hand it can be done. I've never had a repair go bad so far. However, after using the shims on the last few repairs I will say it provides peace of mind that the surrounds are perfectly in place. On my first pair of RL140's I successfully fixed the woofers without shims but it was a real bear. I used a frequency generator to gently apply some low frequency signals to help locate the center position. I finally got it and the speakers have worked great but on my next set I will certainly use shims. So for a first set of speakers to repair surrounds on, the RL 140's are one of the more difficult I would say...just because of their tight tolerance.
Again thanks for sharing your experiences sonavor. Highly valued! Yeah, it is a though decision, but I think with the right amount of patience and gear one can probably pull it off. However at a later stage I will also try with shims
Brand new this one, I think it is just about right color, also lens and motor cleaned.
Now only problem left, annoying occasional open joint somewhere in powersource... working... not working...
....after an hour or so....
Well now, it's finally working
blah-blah and photographs as needed
Hi,
Do you have a wobbly disc clamp as well?
Jacques
chartz: Hi, Do you have a wobbly disc clamp as well?
Yes I have.
Guess it is like that by it's nature... Should it be improved somehow...?
I don't know. I checked my other Philips-based CD players (CDM 2 and 4) and they don't have such a wobbly clamp. The concern was its possible influence on the mechanics. Any vibrating element is bad, and error and noise inducing. Well it might just be my imagination!
Ah, yes. I also different not wobbling CDM's. I guess problem here is a way clamp closes in B&O, it doesnt go straight up to down, but more like "hinged lid". Prehaps it needs a little gap? Maybe thats something one can research...
The clamps I've seen in these decks were all a bit on the wobbly side.
Martin
Hey guys,
Are any of you in Poland? I need a couple of small parts, and the dealer ships only to Poland. Of course, all expenses will be repaid.
Menahem
you who prefer to keep things true to the original, look away
...but B&O are frequent users of aluminum in their sets, however not in this series
The beomaster is yet to be finished
Well, not bad actually!
3500 series?
R2D2: 3500 series?
Thats right BG3500 on the pic BM3500 yet to be done
btw, can you click the picture and see a full sized one, how do you usually add that feature, I inserted a link. not sure if that is necessary,
note that the picture it self is added with URL
Nice looking set! What is the thickness of sheet you used and how dir you remove the old plates? Did you have to dismantle the lid off?
Thx, markus
Thanks Markus, and welcome to the forum.
it is actually a foil I have applied to the BG3500 so nothing removed. the lid of the CD-player comes off easy by use of a toothpick in the small holes on the hinges. A bit more work to get the lid of the BM off, but still easy enough.
BeoLignage: it is actually a foil I have applied to the BG3500 so nothing removed. the lid of the CD-player comes off easy by use of a toothpick in the small holes on the hinges. A bit more work to get the lid of the BM off, but still easy enough.
It looks good Where did you buy this foil?
The foil is from d-c-fix and is available from the net and also in some hard ware stores.
It has no air channels in the glue, so quite tricky to apply. The pictures are true to the result when looked at on short range. however seen from far it looks mostly grey with only little structure, but a lighter grey than the original 3500, which makes the black-grey-black pop a bit more.
I haven't found a good way to source 3M-1080 series of foil in pieces that suit the long lid on the BM, you have to take care that the metal finish direction is in the length direction of the design, to have it look good. otherwise i think it would give an even better look and be easier to apply.
for you who dare the foil is available in almost any colour
Just bought this little beauty from the original owner.
Decided to open it up before powering.
Remove rubber feet. Possibly the should also have been some more screws but they seem to be already removed.
The feet where very hard (dried rubber) two where missing. I'll replace them with new ones.
Unscrew this one at the back.
Lift off the bottom plate.
No obvious disasters.
Remember to change the voltage switch from 220 to 240. This unit has not been used in 25+ years and the mains voltage had changed.
The big electrolytic´s are a little bit bulgy,but no sign of leakage. I'll have to replace them.
Remove the side plates (not necessary). No screw just pull the out.
Be careful since plastic can be very brittle by age.
Next. remove top plate by removing the two screws at the back.
Lift at the back side and pull backwards.
The front side is fixed by this tab.
High quality c-core transformer. The best transformer construction.
A little dust but no obvious bad solder joints.
Output transistors. The thermal compound (the white stuff) can be dried and/or insufficient. Check thermal contact by running the amp at half volume and check with your finger that the transistors doesn't run hotter then the cooling flange.
Clean with a soft brush and a vacuum cleaner. Be careful because vacuum cleaners can generate static electricity. If the PCB is very dirty it can be cleaned with alcohol.
Powering up for the first time. Good I do believe it´s working... Later I hooked it up to a pair of Beovox Penta, and was surprised by the deep bass.
FM lamp is working...
..but not the other ones.
These resistors run quite warm. Maybe that's normal. They seem to be connected to the signal lamps.
Capacitors seem to be of an odd type. One connector in one end...
and two in the other end. Can the be replaced by standard electrolytic?
Two of the lamps where broken. Looks as the are running on 8-9 volts. I assume 12V lamps will work.
Ill be back with more when i got my hands on some caps and lamps.
Continues here: http://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/4146/36968.aspx#36968
//Bo.A long list...
Bos00:and two in the other end. Can the be replaced by standard electrolytic?
I think the lone one in the other end is not used for anything but physical support - see if the PCB pad under it is actually connected anywhere. In the cap itself, it is probably connected to the metal can (making it just an alternative connection for one of the other pins, an ohmmeter should tell you which).
So the answer is yes, but beware if you need to add a jumper wire to the circuit board when replacing the capacitor with a new component that only has two pins - the PCB design might rely on the two pins being connected together.
Nice pics!
(PS: the above is not universally true - old valve sets often have three pin caps that actually contain two capacitors in the same case, with two pins connected together)
--mika
tournedos:So the answer is yes, but beware if you need to add a jumper wire to the circuit board when replacing the capacitor with a new component that only has two pins - the PCB design might rely on the two pins being connected together.
I´ve just checked the schematics and they are all normal electrolytic. 3000µF 50V. Thanks anyway Mika.
The 3rd leg on the big caps is only for support, I changed mine with 3300 uF, and glued them the board.
Lamp and cap kits can be provided by Martin (Dillen), you will get all the smaller electrolytic and all lamps, if I remember right 2 types of lamps, check the the trimmers too, and adjust the idle current. And there are, I think, a 15V supply to be adjusted too.
Good pics, good work
I should take "before" pictures, someone clearly has tried to teach a dog to use Beolink...with teeths. Well it didn't turn out to be like original, but not bad after all, or is it?