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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
As I now have my pizza boxes, well and without damages, in my home, its time to start the cleaning and checkup of all the units, here starting with the BG CD50. I have done my homework and read all about the CD on the forum, Die Bogener and Mika, and Beocentral, Notebook.
If you have some good advises or stupid jokes, please reply.
I read that the CD50 is terrible to service, but taking it apart is a lot easier than BM 2400 and 4000.
Today I took it apart, so here we goes.
The CD must have been stored for some time in a dusty place, look at the dust on the CD tray and the back of the unit.
To get of the top cover, loosen the 2 screws at the back of the unit, loosen them until you can push the latch upwards, the tighten the screws lightly, pull the cover 5-10 Mm to the back and lift it straight up.
Here the CD opened, to get the top PCB out take out the screws at the red arrows.
Now lift up one side of the PCB, take a pic to look at when you have to put it back again
Same from the other side
All the cable connectors in this unit are different sizes or colors, so easy enough to put back again, only one wire to desolder, Dont forget it, its gray.The connectors have some lashes use a small screw driver to loosen them, insert the screw driver at the red arrows, pull all plugs.
The PCB out, someone had the great idea to build a Garage in the middle of the board, inside there you will find 8 caps and some other goodies
Below the top board you will find one more, some of the cables are soldered to the board, but follow them to the other end, there you will find the plug, again take out the screws at the arrows, there are 2 black and 2 nickel screw, put them back in the same places, the nickel ones are ground screws. Now lift up the side of the board, side away from the laser unit, as high as you can, then slide and wiggle it out to the back of the unit, taking care not damage the small jacks or pull out wires.
Board out, at the arrow you see the 7 pin DIN and RCA board, its fitted to the chassis with 3 small plastic expander, with a screw driver, between the board and the jacks, press out the center pin of the expander then from the chassis side, you can pull out the whole plastic piece with a screw driver and one good finger nail, be careful its plastic 30 years old.
The laser unit comes out after taking out the 4 screws that hold it to the rubber buffers, just turn it out to the side of the chassis, do not desolder the wires going to the small contacts. As this laser is "upside down", there is is no dust to speak of.
I placed a soft piece of cotton with tape over the laser for protection, as I know I will move it without thinking of what I'm doing.
The screw drive and the gearwheels looks clean and the grease is still soft
To get out the disc loader, move the gears by hand to the outer most position (check the small contacts below the gears), mark the gears, take of the arm for the front door, then take of the stop and the 4 plastic guide pieces, lift the sledge of the gear and take it out to the front. Forgot to take pics, I was so exited. The red arrows point to adjustments of open and closed position of the front door, dont touch the left one and bring the right one back to where it was, if the door was ok closed and open.
And now to the fun part, checking some of the caps with my new Blue ESR meter, I found one or 2 bad ones (over max limit) and many near the max limit, where max limit is 1 Ohm, they went 0.8-9 Ohm, and so on, I'm going to change some 70+ caps the ones below 1 uF with Wimas MKS2 and the rest with Nichicon high temp.
More to come
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Nice project.
I hope you remembered to mark all gears etc. as they need to get back into the same position (same tooth) ?If you didn't, it can be very difficult to get everything right again.
Martin
Dillen: Nice project. I hope you remembered to mark all gears etc. as they need to get back into the same position (same tooth) ?If you didn't, it can be very difficult to get everything right again. Martin
I did Martin, but forgot to take pics, marked closed pos. and open pos., pics will follow, still have to get out the motor for the disc sledge, want to clean and lubricate it. Want to change the belt too, but I have to open the Beocord to see what I need there, before I order.
Dom
2x BeoSystem 3, BeoSystem 5000, BeoSystem 6500, 2x BeoMaster 7000, 2 pair of BeoLab Penta mk2, AV 7000, Beolab 4000, BeoSound 4000, Playmaker, BeoLab 2500, S-45, S-45.2, RL-140, CX-50, C-75, 3x CX-100, 3x MCL2 link rooms, 3x Beolab 2000, M3, P2, Earset, A8 earphones, A3, 2x 4001 relay, H3, H3 ANC, H6, 2014 Audi S5 with B&O sound, and ambio
Hi soren,i changed the belt on my cd 50 a while back, but i have never been able to get the disc sledge to go all the way in without a little help from me.
It travels three parts the way in then i have to lift the flap up, and then it continues on in and plays the disc.
A ny idea what the problem might be.
glen.
glen fowles: Hi soren,i changed the belt on my cd 50 a while back, but i have never been able to get the disc sledge to go all the way in without a little help from me. It travels three parts the way in then i have to lift the flap up, and then it continues on in and plays the disc. A ny idea what the problem might be. glen.
Take a look at the pic, left red arrow is pointing at a adjusting screw, this screw will be touched by the sledge by the green arrow when the sledge move in and close the flap, if the arm is not working freely this may be why you have to help it, there is a small screw at the front where its connected to the flap, check the screw is not too tight and check that the support at right red arrow has grease and is properly fitted.
The arm is , looking from the front, running along the left side of the laser chassis.
Good luck Soren, these are interesting devices and can be a bit of a challenge. But a good working CD50 is a very nice sounding player. I really like mine
Here the marks I made on the gears, with the sledge in out pos. , before I took it out. But as everything was very dirty I decided to dismantle the whole laser chassis. First I took out the switches and the no disc lamp, then the disc lift, and then the whole chassis.
Main chassis clean, even took out the front display and opened it, but surprise, clean as a whistle.
As it was difficult to clean with the gears mounted, I marked all gears and took out the big top gear, to get it out you will have to take off the big brass knob on the top of it, it has some lacquer on the top, comes off with Iso alcohol, on the side of the knob there is hole with an Allen screw in it, loosen it with a 1.5 Mm. Allen key, loosen it until you see the first thread. Now place a piece of rag or thick cardboard around the knob and turn it counter clockwise with a pair of pliers, without bending the shaft. When loose you can turn it with your fingers, the top of the knob and shaft is threaded. Now pull of the gear and the cam for disc lift. Clean and lubricate, I use silicone grease, put everything back again and adjust the the knob so the gear can move up and down a little (some 3/10 Mm.) or set it as it was before, tighten the Allen screw, done.
Back in with switches and lamp, be sure to get screws right, lamp and switches has different.
Now put in the sledge and mount the front stop, (sorry no pics, camera charging), sledge against the front stop, all marks on gears, attach the plastic guides.
Now turn the gears by hand until the front door closes, continue turning until the disc lift goes up and a little bit down again and the switch in the lower right corner of the pic is actuated, make sure the wires are free from the sledge, if OK put back the laser unit.
Open the sledge by turning the gears by hand, put a disc in the tray, turn the sledge in again, the lift goes up and the disc gets attached to the motor spindle, the lift goes down a little, and the disc like by magic, stays up, attached to the spindle with the lift center piece, a wonderful piece of engineering.
Looks good Søren du kan fandme lave det. får lyst til selv at gå i gang med at renovere noget.
keep up the good work.
/Uldall
It´s a lifestyle.
Uldall: Looks good Søren du kan fandme lave det. får lyst til selv at gå i gang med at renovere noget. keep up the good work. /Uldall
Uldall you are mixing the languages , in German its called Sprachverbisterung, , let them Google it.
Come on Søren... Now I want one! Well done my friend!
Jacques
Søren Mexico: glen fowles: Hi soren,i changed the belt on my cd 50 a while back, but i have never been able to get the disc sledge to go all the way in without a little help from me. It travels three parts the way in then i have to lift the flap up, and then it continues on in and plays the disc. A ny idea what the problem might be. glen. Take a look at the pic, left red arrow is pointing at a adjusting screw, this screw will be touched by the sledge by the green arrow when the sledge move in and close the flap, if the arm is not working freely this may be why you have to help it, there is a small screw at the front where its connected to the flap, check the screw is not too tight and check that the support at right red arrow has grease and is properly fitted. The arm is , looking from the front, running along the left side of the laser chassis.
Thanks soren for your advice,as soon as i have a few minutes i will check it out.
all the best glen
Good luck, Soren. Looking great so far.
I just couldn't wait, I have listed all caps, but still thinking about ordering from Martin, last time it took 92 days to arrive, and I had everything so nice and clean, and when I tested the CD was playing good, the only failure I found was some caps a little tired. So decided to put it all together again.
The laser was already in, so I started putting in the PCBs.
As I didn't mark any cables, I did find 2-3 pieces where there was doubt, but that was a good occasion to get familiar with the drawings, after a while I got the idea of the drawings and found what I needed. All in now
Before connecting I checked everything I could think of one more time, the screw cup was empty, all my tools counted for, no loose connectors, power supply at 127 volts, an old CD ready. But then I saw this. Opposite of the laser spindle there is a guide piece with a ball bearing ball in it, all totally dry, cleaning I only dusted there, I took of the top cover to check it, found the ball and all dry, added some silicone grease.
Cover back on, power on, no smoke and no noises, waited some 3 minutes, still nothing, pressed open, the tray came out, double as fast as before, disk in, upside down, pressed lightly on the tray, it loaded, again much faster than before, pressed play, numbers in the display, clock started counting, moved to last track, cleaned the laser spindle, where I could not clean before, drop of grease. IT WORKS.
Top cover on, done until the caps and belt arrive.
Connected it to the BM, RCA connection, Tape2, I dont have the 7 pin cable,disc in, play, tomorrow I try if I really can walk on water.
This is just beautiful.
Which CD ??, this one of course
Tomorrow I will open the Beocord, take notes and start cleaning, it comes from the same seller, so Dust, Dust, Dust.
chartz: Come on Søren... Now I want one! Well done my friend!
How many Jacques? Just one?
Good job Soren, still amazed about your skills
Brengen & Ophalen
Great job and nice pictures.
Hey Søren, after reading your posts I have decided to renovate my old rl 60.2 I will try to post pictures of the whole process can already be noted that the basses neads to be replaced, can you still buy new devices?
Well done soren, so helpful to someone like myself,having pictures to guide me to do the servicing bits like greasing points etc is really so helpful.
Im afraid i cannot replace caps or anything like that but just having the pics and the arrows and explanations is great for me.
EXCELLENT KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!
Oops, double post.
Leslie: chartz: Come on Søren... Now I want one! Well done my friend! How many Jacques? Just one? Good job Soren, still amazed about your skills
Yes, one will do!
Congratulations Soren you did it and I bet you listen to it more than your other CD players.
Jacques you will not be disappointed. While the lowly CD50 often get a bit of a bad rap it really is a good player when it can be restored to good working condition and I also like the dispaly and overall aesthetics much better than the much ballyhooed CD5500 that i never listen to anymore.
It has been collecting dust for nearly 2 years.
I'm impressed of this CD player, I know I'm lucky because this one didn't get much use, there was no wear or repair signs what so ever and the seller sold it as not working, he probably didn't know that the disc has to be loaded upside down. I have an old Philips player connected to my BM 4000, and the sound of the CD 50 is a lot nicer to listen to, the Philips is tiring to listen to if you dont adjust treble and bass to your like, the CD 50 plays flat and very smooth to listen too, I have it connected to BM 5000 (the BM 5000 has not been opened yet) and Bvox 3702, I will try today with a CD and a vinyl disc, I have some "same" editions. Considering that the BM 5000 has not been adjusted or cleaned yet it can only get better.
After having working on it, I really dont understand why it has a bad name, the BMs 2400, 4000 are a lot worse to work on, again I may have been lucky, the laser drive motor has a date on it, May 1986, so it may be one of the last ones made.
The bad thing is that now I must go looking for a pair of MC 120s, the FS will not speak to me for at least 3 month, if I buy them, but that may be a good thing, I have 4 BMs but only 3 pairs of Bvox, FS's just dont understand.
One Question: I saw Mikas Thread about his BM 6500, he recommended to solder with low heat, I checked the temp on my solder iron with my multimeter, and set it to 280 C, but my solder iron has a tip ball form, about 2.5-3 Mm wide, it seams a little too big for this, but non smaller tips to get for this type, should I buy a small non regulated 25 Wat or will I need to get an expensive temp reg. with smaller tip ??
glen fowles: Well done soren, so helpful to someone like myself,having pictures to guide me to do the servicing bits like greasing points etc is really so helpful. Im afraid i cannot replace caps or anything like that but just having the pics and the arrows and explanations is great for me. EXCELLENT KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!
Did you get your disc tray working ??
I have just bought me another CD 50 (my fourth) -very cheap, because it wasn't working. The tray was opening and closing perfectly -the disc is spinning -the laser is focusing, BUT it stays at the same place... When I looked closely I found that this nylon spindle is damaged:(i've borroughed your picture, Søren -hope You don't mind )
Can somebody help me with such a spindle..?
Steffen
Steffen:Can somebody help me with such a spindle..?
If no one comes up with a spare, find a small mechanics workshop, they should be able to turn one of Polyamid, but check carefully the gear wheel connected to the spindle, it may be damaged too, this kind of wear only occurs if something is blocking the laser carriage movement.
Everybody can use my pics, but it will cost you a Rum and Coke, if we ever meet, {L#], I'm taking notes, and hope to get drunk for free some day
-and I can't even spell -It should offcourse be "borrowed" (maybe I was thinking of Edgar Rice Borroughs)
Thank you for the tip, Søren.
I'll give you a Rum and Coke if we ever meet
Steffen:maybe I was thinking of Edgar Rice Borroughs
Been to see the movie ? might be time to start a "What are you WATCHING" thread :-)
BeoNut since '75
elephant: Steffen:maybe I was thinking of Edgar Rice Borroughs Been to see the movie ? might be time to start a "What are you WATCHING" thread :-)
I haven't seen the movie -and according to the rewiews I haven't missed much...Think I'll wait for the DVD/Bluray version -or maybe just a pirate version, so I don't have to pay
Good idea with the "What are you WATCHING" thread.
Steffen:Good idea with the "What are you WATCHING" thread.
Feel free to mark your mark
http://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/685/5615.aspx#5615
I just read the description about how to remove the gears, lifesaver.
Go back to start of the thread, and then read all posts until you get to the pic with all the gears marked, read and do, no problem.
very fortunate that when my CD50 stopped working, the only person I knew that I could trust to fix it without any qualms was Tim Jarman, and 5 years later it's still working beautifully with my BM5500, MCP5500, and the Redline 60.2's
What is the replacement belt size? I removed the old one from my cd50 in pieces and so far all I can tell is that its a 1.2 mm square belt.
...Also (sorry to have so many questions, this is my first time ever repairing this) how do I get the second gear off after the big one has been removed? There is a "C" shaped washer, do I pry that off? I can't put the belt on until that gear is removed.
my Beosystem 5500, but instead of the 5500 CD player I have the CD50 !
try this
loaded the photo to media on the site, and cannot even use that, get the message
"There are no items at this level in the list"
sad that uploading a photo does not work for me.
ouverture: loaded the photo to media on the site, and cannot even use that, get the message "There are no items at this level in the list" sad that uploading a photo does not work for me.
I get that also, the problem is the "directory" tree ... you need to click on the blue error heads and select each line to find where the system has placed your uploads.
Setting up the file system is counter-intuitive
I ended up with three layers of file structure and you may have the same issue:-
thank you, got there in the end, but that is a really stupid way to upload images if you ask me, who ever designed that needs a lesson about end users and the KISS principle